Sticking piston due to dust seal in Brembo Gold line 4 pot calipers

5165 Series: P3034
(2 x 30mm + 2 x 34mm Pistons) Cast Aluminum Body

20.5165.50* LH GOLD LINE snap-type pads pin
20.5165.58 LH GOLD LINE cotter-clip pads pin with anti-rattle plate
20.5165.60* RH GOLD LINE snap-type pin
20.5165.68 RH GOLD LINE cotter-clip pin/ anti-rattle plate

OE front application on most current Bimota, Ducati, Guzzi, Laverda, and other European makes from ‘93 to present, as well as standard issue in brembo brake kits.

GP 32-36 Front Caliper
(2 x 30mm + 2 x 34mm Pistons) Billet Aluminum Body

After fitting new sintered (07bb15sa) pads to my Brembo gold line 4 pot calipers and having driven about 100 miles, I noticed there was a resistance to move the bike slightly. I decided to lift the front wheel with stands and found that the front wheel was slightly binding as it turned. I then loosened the left hand brembo caliper with the two 8mm allen screws. As soon as the left hand side was removed the wheel rotated freely. I then read that the front wheel should be bounced with the nuts loose then tightened in a certain sequence and then re-tightened to correct torque. With the wheel on the ground and loosened I bounced the wheel tightened the pinch nuts, then tightened the front wheel and checked again with wheel in the air. It was still binding, I took the pads out of the left hand caliper and pulled the front brake lever. I noticed that one of the larger pistons was slow to move out. I then put a screwdriver handle in between the smaller pistons and a pair of mole grips on the opposite large piston. I managed to push the piston out enough with the lever, then pull it out the final few milimeters with just my hands rocking the piston from side to side. The piston was clean and undamaged. I cleaned the dust seal and the main seal. Then thought i should remove them just in case. I have had bikes in the past where water has setteled behind the seals causing corrosion and pushed the seals out. I removed the main seal, cleaned and found no dirt. I put the piston back in but it was extremely tight. Then taking the piston out I decided to take the dust seal out also. It had a indent on the inside and when looking at the indent in the calpier body it seemed to be a locating plug. When I checked with a small screwdriver with a smaller blade to fit the gap. It scraped off and was a build up of dirt. I cleaned it by soaking in brake fluid and scraping with tissue until it softened enough to remove.

I replaced the seals after ensuring all dirt was removed, covered them in brake fluid. The piston pushed back in easily and realised I had found out why the brakes had not returned to their normal play. Now when pulling in the lever there was very little play. Spinning the wheel there was no binding from the brakes. At last working as they should.

Reminds me of a few things to follow.

Take time to clean and strip parts

Some times it is easier to take longer and remove items then try the quick way in situate.

Look in the forums for help and advice. Ask mechanics for advice. If you have a good friend like Pat who was my old supervisor when I was a mechanic years ago. He told me the probable cause straight away....

So thanks to Pat

Bike is back on the road and nearly 29 thousand miles covered now

brembo brake pads 07BB15SA sinter fitted on the Ducati 916

Before I fitted the pads I did feel the front brake was a bit spongy at times and thought best to change pads before inspecting. The old pads although within spec had a little more life in them. I took off the brake calipers and pushed out the pistons. I found that one of the larger pistons on the right side was very hard to move. When the brakes were cleaned and all back together. I noticed the brake distance and feel had improved. This led me to believe the piston had caused the spongy feel before and could have fed back to the brake lever the travel on the lever before biting. Although I say travel this in reality was only a few millimetres. The difference now is the brake lever feels as though there is no play until biting point. As when the bike was new.

For a quick fix to replace the pads took me longer than normal but. In addition to replacing the pads with brembo 07BB15SA sinter pads. I carried out the following:

Cleaned the pins that hold the brake pads. Rubbed them down with a abrasive paper and greased before reassembly. I plan to replace these pins next time.

Degreased and cleaned inside the calipers. Cleaned the pistons of any dirt or build up of grime. Greased the pistons with suitable grease and made sure that they moved easily.

Last is to check all bolts are back to torque. Road test and to drive the bike to bead in the brakes. Most manufacturers say to avoid heavy breaking in the first 100 miles or so.

boxhill on a sunny day and tyre pressures

After a ride out to box hill, I could tell the steering was very heavy. This led me to checking the tyre pressures. You can see in the picture below they were both low, they should be 2.0 front and 2.2 rear. I will have to keep a check on them more often or have them filled with nitrogen. This stops the natural air leak into the atmosphere.
Lots of bikes out at box hill car park. As soon as the sun is out.
Vinny

ace cafe london brighton run

Popped to Brighton today as the ace cafe organized their event at Brighton seafront. As the picture below shows it was packed with so many motorcycles and three wheelers. There was also scooters and choppers. A varied bunch of bikers listening to the bands and shopping at the stalls.

Change brembo rear Pads on a Ducati 916 bp

Just taken a few videos showing how to change the pads on the Ducati. As with any advice, If you are not sure then do not attempt to, as brakes are an important part of the mechanicals. I also cleaned and greased the pistons, checked seals on the caliper before this picture. This helps the pistons to move without problem. The most common issue with brakes is having dirt on the pistons affecting the brakes to drag or bind.

Video 1 shows the new pads, 12mm t bar socket at the ready with new brembo 07bb2010 rear pads. Checking the fluid level which is low on mine as I have not topped up. If it was full, then it would need draining as when the pads are pushed in the fluid will overflow or stop the pistons from going back in.

Video 2 shows where the locating bolts are and how to access. Make sure the socket is fully covering the head of the bolt and undo both.

Video 3 shows rocking the caliper on the disc so that the motion pushes back the pads. I have already cleaned the pistons and greased them. This makes the brakes ease back as they should. The pistons move back until the pads will not move anymore.

Video 4 shows the pads being replaced. As the pads are dropped below, the new ones are added and make sure the pins and spring clip are all put back as they should be.

Video 5 shows the pin in place before pushing in place. After the circlip is replaced and checked that it is home fully.

Video 6 shows the brake play is checked and that there is play in the lever. On the ducati there is adjustment on the lever. If this was over tightened, it could cause the brakes to bind

Pirelli Angelst tyres fitted on Ducati 916 bp

The tyres needed changing on my Ducati 916 bp and looking around I did not want super sticky pirellis as most of my miles are commuting to work. On the advice of tyre shop fwr in kennington road london, I have fitted some pirelli angelst tyres front and back. 120/70 zr17 pirelli angelst and 190/50 zr17angelst.
I was going to fit a 180 on the rear as I have always had a 190 profile on the rear. When you read reports from other people they say that the 180 will enable a quicker change of direction. I guess its a personal prefrence. In the end a 190 replaced the 180 so will have to keep to that for now. Look forward to running in the new tyres so that I can test them and see how they compare to the dunlops that were fitted.
Vinny

Handy service spec including torques settings for Ducati 916 bp Biposto

Handy Service items
list of some of the items that you need to service the bike
Tyre pressures
front 2.2 bar and spindle nut tighten to 15-20 nm
rear 2.4 bar and rear wheel nut tighten to 157nm

Oil capacities with oil filter is 4.0 litres but i find it is around 3.5litres. Easier to fill with less and add when visible in the window.
Torque setting to tighten up the oil drain plug is 42nm and the oil filter is 17nm. If removed the guaze is 42nm and its best to replace the ally washer.

Torque for rear wheel pinch bolts. This is for the two bolts that are loosened to alter the chain adjustment. 32nm
Front wheel pinch bolts are 20nm

valve clearance
0.15 inlet 0.20 exhaust
closers 0.05

Plugs Ngk DCPR9E
0.6 mm gap and tighten to 15 - 20 nm plus grease the threads slightly. I replaced the plugs at 14k. now at 23k the plugs are still ok.

Chain tension is 25mm. Turn the wheel until you feel the tight spot in the chain. Then take the measurement and adjust.

I have carried out the following and have cleaned the air filters, removed the sump plug on the side and cleaned the gauze. Checked plugs not replaced as they are ok. Have a look at the pictures below. Colour looks ok although the air filters need a clean.

As with any service, check all nuts and bolts visibly to see if there are any loose. Check all lights to make sure they are working. Tyre depths. Brake fluids are topped up. Cooling mixture is at right level with engine cold. Wheels spin easily and have no play (for possible worn bearings). Battery levels are correct and it is clean externally. Quick check of charging after to make sure the charging system is working. Check brake pads front and rear are within spec. There is a fuel filter in the tank which should be changed. Easier if the tank has little fuel in to take out.