Monday, 15 September 2008



Travelling along the M4 motorway, I felt the front end rumble as though I had a puncture. As i stopped and checked the bike I could not find anything. As I moved on again I heard a noise from the front wheel. As I reached home I could tell the squeak was from the front wheel bearing. On closer inspection several of the bearings had disappeared.




I then had to set up the bike so I could remove the front wheel, with the help of the garden swing minus the chair. The frame and a couple of straps maintained the front wheel in the air.

With a trip to Pats at Viking motorcycles 02086719915. Pat removed the old bearings and installed the new 6005 2rs. I put back the wheel in the bike and its ready for another day...
Vinny

Sunday, 31 August 2008

tyre pressures need checking


As you can see my front tyre pressure was low. In the manual it states 2.2 bar front and 2.4 rear. Both were down by several. Hopefully this will improve ride and feedback. I guess with the bike standing it is just a general loss.....
Vinny

Wednesday, 27 August 2008

I keep saying its no good standing still


I have in the past bought low mileage bikes which have had issues. One bike as it had been standing outside the rear suspension rod had rusted. After a little use the seal went and the shock was no good. Which brings meemories as i now look at my bike and as it has been outside for four weeks. I can see on the aluminium the white dust starting to appear and that i have not been out on the bike. After the install of new pads and brake fluid the brakes need to be beaded in. I have cleaned the bike and sprayed with a wd40 type fluid. The miles are 23k and trying to turn the bike over was a bit slow. It fired into life....

Friday, 22 August 2008

Maintenance Ducati style good or bad

Have treated the bike to new pads all round. When i put the bike in for mot the pads were mentioned. Now a few thousand miles further they needed replacing.
I took the calipers off and cleaned all around each piston. Also cleaned where the brake pads fit against the caliper. As this can cause the pads to stick. Renewed the brake fluid completly. Silicon grease around the pistons individually.
My rear pads have also been replaced. The pads started to stick due to muck in the caliper area. This is easily removed with degreaser and a old toothbrush.
Now both front and rear brakes seem to be improved. The cleaning helping them to perform as they should.
Vinny

Monday, 30 June 2008

The advantage of a Ducati dry clutch, even with clatter noise

Last week on the way home, I started to hear noises from my clutch area. If you have heard a Ducati close up. This is not unusual, but for me the noise was slightly mechanical when pulling the lever in. A few more miles and the bike jumped unusually. The clutch lever became locked and I could not use the clutch.
I pulled up at the side of the road. Took out my tool kit and started to investigate. I took off the side fairing, 6 dzuzs pins, 5 allen screws to show the clutch cover.
In one way it is a advantage, with all the bikes I have owned if there is a problem with the clutch it means you are stranded. Although in my history of bikes it has only been slipping plates.
As I pulled the parts off I could see the issue. The 6 allen bolts holding the springs on the retaining plate removed. The clutch centre nut had loosened. This had caused the clutch plates to work their way out of the clutch basket.
As I hand tightened the clutch nut. Put all the parts together, I made my way home.

A visit to Pats in Herne Hill after checking the torque value from the Ducati manual. 180 to 190 nms with loctite. The whole job probably took 30 mins and with the nut at the correct torque and with plenty of loctite. I look forward to hearing only the clatter of the dry clutch, not the clutch lever refusing to dis-engage.

Vinny

Wednesday, 4 June 2008


Its fixed now, i have had a new stator fitted at Pats viking motorcycles. O208 671 9915. The voltage at the battery is now around 13 volts. That's higher than its ever been since i owned the bike. I know now there is very little chance that the battery will loose its charge now.

Vinny


Saturday, 31 May 2008

Ducati alternator windings or should i say starting problem














It started a while ago. I would return from work, switch the bike off to open the gate. Try to start the bike and it would not turn over. The battery was flat, quick check and it was only 11 volts. Checked charging voltage on the battery terminals and only 12.2 volts. Less with the lights on.




Started to investigate the connections from the alternator and they are discoloured. Not a good sign. Although if its the issue then success. Tried cleaning all the connections reconnecting, checked voltage still no good.

Posts up on the Ducati site for help, Lots of advice, battery possibly, voltage regulator and alternator, stator etc.

With the help of a forum user, checked the output from the alternator by disconnecting the two yellow wires, placing a meter on the end and checking the output. Also to check the ohms resistance between each wire and to earth. The ohms values seem to be in range. 0.03 between each wire and no leakage to earth.......but the output is OK so that must mean the regulator rectifier is faulty.


Mike was brilliant, i had ordered a voltage regulator, forgot that the block connector is burnt and the connectors discoloured. Mentioned this and a new one arrived the next day in the post. If only all companies acted this way.

A few days later, the new voltage regulator back on. picture shows new connectors also with Mikes advice i solder the connectors. Took time to crimp the new connector. Checked the output and still not over 12.4 volts charging. I have made a mistake.

Now i phone Pat at Viking motorcycles. He tells me to check the output values with the workshop manual.

Check the values and i find....
The readings from the alternator should be only 0.2 to 0.4 ohms. Previous readings differ.
The output from the alternator should be
35 volts at 1500 revs
70 volts at 3000 revs
140 volts at 7000 revs

From memory i could only achieve around 20 volts on tick over and a maximum of 40 volts.......Now i wished i had taken time to read the manual and to discus the issue with Pat first. It could have saved me spending some money and trying to pinpoint the outcome.

moral of the story
take time to research the correct values and how to check. Save yourself some money.